Em tabuleiros improvisados nas esquinas da cidade, entre a diversidade de pratos dos restaurantes self-service às sextas-feiras, na vitrine asséptica da delicatessen, nas mesas adornadas com toalha de renda em feriado religioso – lá estão o acarajé e o abará, o vatapá e o caruru, a galinha de xinxim ou o bobó de camarão. O tripé de ingredientes composto por azeite de dendê, leite de coco e pimenta permanece icônico na definição de uma comida baiana. Em maior ou menor quantidade, em uma versão light ou processada, quente ou fria, os ingredientes são marcadores entre as opções de pratos: para atestar a permanência da baianidade. Este trabalho é uma análise sobre a construção simbólica contemporânea da “comida baiana”, observada a partir de um percurso histórico sobre Salvador, Bahia, enquanto uma mercadoria cultural na economia de serviços que define a cidade.
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